Arts Day in Reykjavik

There is a big debate here as to whether or not Iceland should allow their rivers and geothermal hot spots to be used by energy intensive industries. Some arguments advocating for industry include the ideas that the industries bring jobs to Iceland, intern helping to improve the delicate economic state, along with the idea that it would be better for the industries to use green energy here, than to use coal powered electricity elsewhere.

The day before the field trip, we had viewed a documentary entitled “Dreamland,” which is based off a book by Andri Snær Magnason. This wonderfully intense movie highlighted the ecological damages caused by the aluminum smelters who take advantage of the hydro power provided by one of Iceland’s rivers. One of the main points being made by this book/movie was that people tend to make irrational decisions when they’re afraid. In this case, Iceland’s government made an irrational decision by overlooking the damage done to Iceland’s ecosystems, and the importance of natural beauty to Iceland’s people. On the morning of the fieldtrip we had the rare privilege of meeting Andri and hearing him speak at the house of Halldór Laxness. In his talk, Andri shared with us that if all the aluminum in the United States that is thrown away was instead recycled, it would be enough to replace the entire US stock of airplanes, five times over. He followed this fact by asking us, when is what we produce considered enough? He made a convincing point that if a person has a large amount of something, he or she will just want more of it. It won’t compensate for future desires. He also stated that there are several other ways to enhance the Icelandic economy, including through the arts and tourism.

The place where we met Andri was a museum that was once the house of the famous Icelandic author Halldór Laxness. Now a historical museum, we received a tour of his house and learned of the impact he had on Icelandic literature. It was fascinating to see the array of books in various rooms!
After a brief stop at the Alfoss wool outlet, we headed for the main art museum in Reykjavik. The first gallery included several impressionists’ style paintings, but mostly we toured the gallery featuring the work of Jóhannes S. Kjarval.

Next we stopped at the sculpture museum, and former home, of Ásmundur Sveinsson. Working primarily with wood and stone, his themes included motherhood, childhood and growth, and heroism in Icelandic folklore. The most entertaining part of the museum was a dome-shaped room with incredible acoustics. If someone was whispering from across the room, it sounded like they were speaking directly into your ear!
Continuing on, we visited a sculpture park with more traditional art from Einar Jónsson. His metal sculptures depicted several stories and iterprutations of bilical stories and norse mythology. The park was directly outside of Hallgrímskirkja, a giant cathedral perched high on the hill in Reykjavik. Our final stop of the day included a tour inside of the church, along with a trip to the top of the main tower. From there we gazed down across the "smokey bay" taking in all the colorful buildings providing a contrast of color against the gray sky. Inspired by the day's array of creativity, the boys of the group paused for a moment to create a scuplture of their own. Their medium of choice: mustaches.

~Laurel
Photos: Laurel, Elizabeth-Anne, Meg

International Day of Climate Change

350...not just a number - an international movement! Confused? October 24th marked the international day of climate action, sponsored by 350.org, an international campaign dedicated to building a movement to unite the world around solutions to the climate crisis. 350 parts per million of CO2 in the atmosphere is what many climate scientists are calling the “safe limit for humanity”. Stabilizing CO2 levels to 350 ppm, they say, will likely allow humanity to avoid the most catastrophic effects of global climate change.

Thus on October 24th, 350.org challenged communities around world to organize a gathering incorporating the number 350 to bring attention to the climate crisis. Wanting to demonstrate the urgency of the climate crisis, our CELL Iceland ‘09 group was happy to respond by taking a picture with our 350 poster outside of Sesseljuhus.

While our efforts took all of ten minutes, we were glad to at least send the message that we care. All 14 of us care about our climate, our environment, and our future. We care about sustainability, social justice, and global peace and prosperity. We care and we are not ashamed to let our local and global communities know it. 350 for us represents all of these shared goals and dreams. As we have learned in our CELL curriculum, social justice, environmental issues, and global welfare are all interconnected. With the advent of global climate change these connections are ever more evident, since rising sea levels and a warming climate are the biggest threats to developing countries with little means to prepare for such consequences. Therefore in speaking out about global climate change, we are speaking out against social injustice and also speaking up for sustainable living.

~Natalie

Geysers and Gulfoss and Ghosts...Oh My

Our initial plans of kayaking fell through at the last minute but the replacement field trip was no disappointment. I’d never seen a pit of boiling water coming out of the ground before I came to Iceland and I had never seen a geyser erupt either. What a big day! We started out by visiting the world-famous Geysir, the hot spring that all other geysers were named after. It doesn’t erupt much anymore but its neighboring Strokkur sure does. Watching the power build up and explode 30 meters out of Strokkur every 5 minutes or so was quite impressive.

Geysir and Gullfoss are part of the popular Golden Circle tour in Iceland. Gullfoss, meaning Golden Waterfall, is a two-tiered 32m fall with the second drop off cascading into a crevice and from there flowing at a 90 degree angle. It was cold and rainy during our visit but that did not dampen our spirits. Next, we visited an old reforestation site. How refreshing to walk through a forest of trees that are actually taller than us! This site had been planted about 50 years ago with various Nordic and Alaskan pines, birches and cottonwoods. It was comforting to think that the trees we had just planted at Hekla could one day be a beautiful forest just like the one we were walking through.

Lunch was the next stop where we ate hearty lobster soup and salad in Eyrarbakki, a historical fishing town. The Eyrarbakki Maritime Museum was just across the street so we headed there to brush up on our history. The museum contained a preserved 19th century Icelandic home, a 14-man fishing boat from 1919 and an exhibit about the earthquake that shook Iceland in May, 2008.
After visiting the museums, we crossed the street and strolled over a hill where we were greeted by a delightful view of the Atlantic Ocean. It was only about 4:30 pm but the sun was already starting to creep closer to the horizon. We hung out on the rocks for a while then trooped back to our pretty green bus and headed to a lighthouse. Some people apparently get woozy when climbing 5 stories of stairs and viewing the beautiful Icelandic landscape from a tiny observation deck, but the trip was worth it. The sun was still falling towards the ocean so the view was spectacular. A ghost museum was next on the schedule (it was more of a haunted house with an MP3 player that told ghost stories). Iceland's historical lore includes many tales of mysterious creatures and peculiar ghost legends. Although the actual museum was a bit hokey, the stories gave us a glimpse of the rich storytelling traditions surrounding the landscape. We emerged from the tour in time to see the beautiful sunset in full force, a comforting reminder of nature’s beauty.

~Angelique
(Photos by Angelique)

Reforestation Near Mt. Hekla

Our trip for this week was at a farm in Galtalækur at the largest afforestation project in Europe; we were a mere 10 kilometers away from Mt. Hekla, a volcano which is supposed to erupt any moment; how exciting!!

(Day 1)
We arrived just in time for a quick lunch with our new hosts and then headed right out into the field to plant trees. We set out in pairs, one person armed with a "gaspa", a tube like mechanism for planting, and the other wearing a belt with pockets full of tree plugs. Most of the trees we were planting were birch but there were also some Rowan. After 3 hours of rainy, windy, and cold tree planting, our work for the day was complete. In our three hour work period we collectively planted around 1600 trees, not too shabby.
We had a wonderful dinner of mysterious white fish, potatoes, lamb stew, and cabbage. In our post-dinner food coma we played a rousing game of who-would-win-in-a-fight. Some of the notable match-ups included Salvador Dali vs. Dr. Seuss, Grizzly Man vs. the Bernstein Bears, and William Taft vs. a bathtub. Our food comas took an interesting twist when our hostess brought out a tub of vanilla ice cream (iś) for our enjoyment. Three bowls of ice cream and 4 cups of coffee later, Jeffrey and Meg decided to give the boys a tour of their humble abode. A sugar-infused tour of a house smaller than a train car raises questions, such as how many CELL group members can fit inside of Meg and Jeffrey’s bathroom? Answer: 6, including Meg and Jeffrey. There was screaming, hysterical laughter, and 5-part male harmonies, such a special moment.

(Day 2)
We woke bright and early to a succulent breakfast which involved two of our favorite things: oatmeal and coffee. As soon as our forestry project head, Hreinn, arrived, we returned to our planting spot in the shadow of Hekla to continue planting trees. The morning was filled with hard work, laughter, and frozen rain. We then all piled into Hreinn’s mini trailer and made our way back from the lava field to the farm for a typical Icelandic lunch, creamy soup and a smorgasbord of condiments unimaginable to even the most condimentally inclined person. It was then nap time for some as the morning’s work and tasty meals set in, while others braved the frigid cold and tried their hand at the local fishing river (to no avail). Icelandic fish are tricky. Before dinner, we gathered together in the common living space and participated in a lively discussion on some simple ways to live more sustainably, incorporating several articles into our class session. Upon return, another feast had been prepared for us by our generous hostess, fish balls for all!!! We enjoyed the Icelandic delicacy which was of course followed by ice cream. After the second night in a row of bowl-to-bowl challenges, Jeffrey proved he was the worthy champion.

(Day 3)
After two days of intense tree planting and foraging it was time for some outdoor exploration. Hreinn dropped us off at a farm for a day hike in the nearby foothills of Mount Hekla. We frolicked through fields of Icelandic sheep and gazed at several of Iceland’s smaller (but still beautiful) waterfalls. After a quick pit stop at an old turf sheep barn we came upon a glassy lake which was a perfect setting for photo opportunities with the snow capped Mt. Hekla in the background. At that point we split up into two groups, one group circumnavigated the foothills and the other climbed over them. Both routes provided picturesque scenes and stunning views of the desolate and captivating Icelandic landscape. We reconvened at our rendezvous point at the bottom of the foothills for a celebratory post-hike sandwich while we waited for Hreinn to taxi us back to the farm. The rest of the day was filled with knitting, naps and pastries, along with a group journaling exercise in looking at nature from different perspectives.



(Day 4)
After a fond farewell to our wonderful hosts at the farm, we set off the next morning for our journey back to Solheimar. But much to our delight, there were many surprise stops along the way! First Hreinn guided us to the official Mt. Hekla museum, encased in a building made entirely of volcanic rock! As we walked through the dark and eerie exhibit, we got to see real seismic readings, showing the current activity of the ever stirring volcano! We also learned about the tales and folklore of Hekla’s mystical and magical history, which Icelanders have believed in for centuries. Soon after, Hreinn led us through our next series of stops, which gave our group hope for the tiny seedlings we had left in the black ashy soil! Hreinn first took us to an area where recently planted trees had grown a few feet. This was reassuring, seeing how much progress the reforestation effort was already making! But just when we thought we had seen it all, our guide led us to a fully fledged pine forest, with many large trees fading into the distance. At this moment, an overwhelming sense of pride came over our group for Iceland and their amazing efforts for reforesting their countryside, and for ourselves, being a part of that effort. As we left the forest in great spirits, we drove back to Solheimar, reflecting on both our fun times and our impact on the reforestation initiative.


~Andy and Abbey
(Photos by Elizabeth-Anne)

þingvellir

We have been studying Icelandic history in class, but today we had the chance to visit a site that has been deeply influential to the development of this country, þingvellir. This is the original site of the parliment meetings dating back before 1000 BC, and as we soon found out, this physical location ended up being much more than just a political arena.

Today, the area has been made into a national park, and recently was added to the list of world heritage sites. After a quick presentation from a park ranger, we stepped outside of the visitor center to explore. Our guide led us along a wooden boardwalk, describing the influence of this particular landscape to us. We took in the diverse geological spectrum of volcanic rifts, basalt columns, waterfalls, and the beautiful lakes. He took us to the spot where an Icelandic flag now stands in remembrance of this great, historical meeting spot. Alþingi was Iceland's traditional parliament, established in 930AD. Historically, being the world's oldest parliament, it has guided Iceland through hardship and success. We heard how this location was central to meetings where representivies from all corners of the country would gather and discuss and set the laws of the times. Sometimes that meant an individual would ride across the highlands for two weeks in order to participate...such dedication!

We walked through a short canyon, ending at a historic "drowning pool", the ranger told us. Many deaths were recorded of women being drowned there for having a child out of wedlock. On a happier note, we moved towards the streams to see if any brown trout were visible. Although they weren't, we enjoyed the beauty of the ice and the water's flow. Until recently, þingvellir has been Iceland's grounds for social gatherings and building community. Although, necessary for the nation's progress, revoking Alþingi has caused much controversy. The national park has preserved this cultural tradition to enrich the knowledge of visitors.

From þingvellir national park, we headed towards Skálholt. Skálholt is also a major political and cultural site historically. Skálholt´s priest told us about the background of the "Church of Iceland". He told tales of the trials and tribulations of the catholic bishops and two main reformations. Just when Iceland thought Christianity was going to blossom, Lutheranism began to uproot the Catholic foundations. Finally, Christianity settled in the middle ages. Under the foundation of the church, the Priest pointed out a tomb of one of Iceland's late, great bishops and leader before leading us through one of the remaining original undergound tunnels still on the property.

What a treat to have these historicaly siginificant destinations close enough so that in one day we can see with our own eyes the landscapes and buildings that contributed so much to the formation of the country we know today.

~Ryan and Caleigh
(Photos by Meg)

Horse Back Riding

From day one here in Iceland, we have all had horses on the brain. For weeks now, we have longingly watched as fields full of Icelandic horses passed by our bus windows, and we wondered if we would ever get the chance to ride such noble steeds. There is even a small herd of horses that roams near Solheimar that we have befriended, and we often take walks to pet their fuzzy coats while they attempt to eat our mittens and boots.

Needless to say, we were beyond excited when we got the news last Thursday that we would have to chance to take a sunset ride on Icelandic horses through the countryside! It was a blustery day, so we all layered up and headed out anxiously to the stables where the horses were waiting patiently for us. Once we had all picked out helmets and somehow managed to squash them on over our woolen hats, we waited to be paired up with our horses. Oh, and by the way, while the horses of Iceland may be vertically challenged, they (and their owners) are easily offended if you call them ponies! What these horses may lack in height, they certainly make up for in raw beauty and spunk. I'm not sure that all of the horses shared in our bubbling enthusiasm... by the looks of their plump figures, they probably would have preferred to munch on their hay all day! Soon enough we were all mounted and ready to set off onto what looked like the last frontier. Whether first-time riders or experienced equestrians, every one of us was grinning ear to ear as we headed off towards snow capped mountains, with a setting sun on one side and a big orange moon coming up on the other.

Like a band of vikings we set off through the fields, flanked by stable dogs and with the occasional spotting of sheep in the distance. Despite frozen fingers and numb toes, I simply could not imagine a more perfect way to experience the Icelandic wilderness than on the back of a shaggy, hardy Icelandic horse. We even got to experience the "tolt" which is a special 5th gait that only Icelandic horses have--- it's like a fast trot that feels like riding a couch! After about 45 minutes of bliss, we were back at the stables and hopped off, making sure to give our horses a good ear scratch as thanks for the ride. With our smiles still frozen in place, we piled back into our cars to head home to Solheimar--- returning with the tufts of horse-hair still clinging to our clothes and memories of a ride we won't soon forget.

~Michelle
(Photos by Elizabeth-Anne)

Turf Houses 101

With packs in tow, the group ambled up a farm road, an hour from Solheimar, to a little turf house where we would be staying the night. Hannes, our turf house expert, and his lovely wife Christine welcomed us with coffee, homemade fry bread, and chocolate cake, the first of many opportunities to enjoy some wonderful Icelandic home cooking.

While we sipped coffee, and heard a quick overview on the weekend’s activities we had a chance to admire the beautiful room where we would be staying that night. Originally built in the 1800s as part of Hannes family’s farm, he and his brother had rebuilt the place after several decades of neglect. The interior walls had been reconstructed from the original planks of driftwood collected over a hundred years ago. The beds, only a little longer than five and a half feet long, were covered in knitted quilts, and hand carved bowls, spoons, and figurines lined shelves above our heads. I asked Hannes if groups often came to stay in this turf house, and we were all surprised when he told us that other than the CELL Maymester group, no one had ever stayed here before. The house will actually be turned into a museum next summer after the completion of the exhibition hall that is being built down the road.

Hannes shared with us a little about his childhood growing up on the farm and how many generations had lived in the room where we were sitting. He pointed to one bed and said that at least a dozen of his ancestors had been born and several, including his grandmother, had died in that very spot.

After we had settled in a little Christine asked for some help harvesting salad greens for dinner, and Michelle and I were treated to a tour of a garden full of lettuces, mustards, and rhubarb. Another garden on a different part of the property held potatoes, carrots and turnips, and a third was full of arugala and other tasty greens. We then had a chance to tour the buildings and take a look at the projects we would be helping out with the next day. The complex had several buildings all built into a single hill to keep everything warm and snug through the long Icelandic winters. We could all see how practical that was as we stood outside in some of the coldest and windiest weather we’ve experienced thus far in Iceland. In addition to the house where we were staying, there was a workshop, a fish drying shed, a small stable for two horses, a forge, and an outdoor kitchen, which Hannes said was one of the oldest of it’s kind. He described it as a true iron age structure.

While touring inside the new building for the museum we got to see a few of the artifacts that it will hold, including some scythe blades used for cutting turf. The large windows, which Hannes has designed to capture passive solar energy, gave us the perfect viewing area to enjoy a brief, but intense hail storm. Then it was off to enjoy some more of Christine’s fabulous cooking. Fresh salad was followed by a traditional fish soup and homemade bread (courtesy of Hannes and our very own Caleigh) and ended with bowls of Icelandic moss in warm milk and honey. Christine had collected the moss herself close by and said it was an old Viking remedy that would keep us healthy. Dinner was followed by a slideshow and lecture on traditional turf houses: history, building techniques, and regional differences in architectural designs. One particularly interesting bit was seeing how one farmhouse had changed over time to suit the needs of its inhabitants. Because turf houses need to be rebuilt once or twice every generation, adding, removing, and remodeling are fairly common. Before heading off to bed, several of us who were working on knitting projects had the opportunity to ask Christine for advice, which was very helpful. She even demonstrated the proper Icelandic technique for us, which I certainly have not mastered yet.

The next morning, we were given a lesson in how to build a turf wall which requires arranging a number of volcanic stones in a flat and sturdy layer, packing them with earth, and then adding a layer of turf on top. This is then repeated until the wall is a sufficient height. One team worked on a wall at the front of the house while the other worked to repair a wall of the kitchen damaged in the last major earthquake. Two lucky boys even got to drive out to the turf field on the tractor and help cut the fresh turf we needed for the walls. The afternoon was clear and sunny, although a bit nippy and windy.

Wall building went very well on the whole, although most of us felt that we didn’t work hard enough to deserve all of the wonderful food that poured out of Christine’s kitchen. A delicious lunch was followed only an hour or two later by pancakes with whipped cream and homemade rhubarb jam! We were all very full and very happy when we left on our little turquoise bus late that Sunday. We all hope that the museum opening goes well for Hannes and Christine, and I would suspect that more than one of us is trying to figure out how they can construct a turf house for themselves back home.

~Laura

Photos by Meg